Spell of the Wild

21 June: Day-14, Total-15; Miles-16, Total-486 – Chuck

We found a bit of a surprise when we checked the canoes this morning. The river level had risen several inches, probably due to the rains of a couple days ago. Plus, Scott, of Kanoe People back in Whitehorse, had told us the river would rise as the warmer temps melted more snow in the mountains. The rise was enough to float our canoes off the rocky shore. Mine was tied to the base of a clump of bushes about 10 feet from the shore. The higher water was now about a foot deep at the bushes and the bushes were now 15 feet out in the water. Bill had tied his canoe to a long log on the shore. Fortunately, when the log floated, it dragged and got hung up after only a few feet. We learned a good lesson!

It was a great day and we were headed to the big city of Dawson, about five miles down stream. We passed the mouth of the clear little Klondike River and there was Dawson, on our starboard and nestled at the junction of the two rivers. We pulled in to a gravel landing just below the S.S.Keno, which is now a museum up on the bank above the river.

What a great town, we both loved every minute we spent there. Our first stop was the Post Office; it was open until noon, great! They only had two of the three packages that we were expecting, not so great. We made arrangements for them to forward the remaining package. Bill received the PocketMail device, like mine, that Betty had sent and I got some film mailers she sent to me. Next stop, The Wash House, just what we need, pay showers and a coin laundry in the same building. Plus, there was a pay phone on the wall outside.

All scrubbed up, messages sent and some phone calls made, we treated ourselves to a great lunch at Joe's Place (or something like that). The prawn sandwiches, veg-beef soup and cold Yukon Gold (beer) were all good.

We walked around this quaint little frontier like town with dirt/gravel streets and false fronted buildings it seems we either had gone back a hundred years or stumbled onto a movie set. I added some books to my little traveling library. I had deliberately not brought any nature guide books, partly to save space & weight and partly because I thought they might get wet a lot. I now know I've got the space and think I can keep them dry. Mostly I really miss not being able to identify wildlife, flowers, etc or answer important questions, like "How to tell the difference between a moose track and a caribou track. I've now got a guide for birds, mammals and wildflowers; all geared to northern Canada or Alaska. Also, picked up a paperback, Jack London's "Call of the Wild" and some other short stories. It has been decades since I have been thrilled by Jack London and now seemed a good time to check in with him again.

While I made more phone calls, Bill visited a small First Nation cultural festival by the river. We both "grubbed-up" at the grocery and were ready to head on down the river.

We met Mark and Kevin by our canoes, they and Kevin's brother-in-law & his wife were headed to the Bering Sea in two canoes lashed together like a catamaran. With four paddling and Mark with a drum for cadence and a whip for inspiration, they are really flying down the river.

As we floated away and Dawson grew smaller in our wake, we both wish we had stayed there for the night. It is a grand town, plus today is the Summer Solstice and they will celebrate the longest day of the year tonight. Traditionally, a lot of the townfolk walk up Midnight Dome which overlooks Dawson; of course they do this at midnight and it is still light.

We went about 11 miles down stream and found an island to pitch upon. I had a great tossed salad that filled my gold-pan salad bowl. About 11:30, I was awakened by music; some boats were tied together and folks were partying as they rafted down stream. A few more drifted by, then at midnight, someone called "Get up and celebrate the Summer Soltice". I crawled halfway out of my tent to investigate and saw that Bill also was checking. We heard a bit more music and shouting but I quickly drifted off into dreamland.