Overview and Catchup – Bill

I got to Whitehorse a few days before Chuck made it. The ALCAN Road starts at Dawson Creek, BC and is absolutely spectacular with maybe 20 miles of gravel surface and one place maybe 5 miles long – the mountains are spectacular, the rivers are crystal clear and flowing rapidly. I saw several mountain goats right by the road, also several moose, buffalo, caribou, etc. The forests are spruce, fir, poplar, birch and WILD! If anyone has the opportunity to see this it will be well worth your time. I camped in my truck along the way. One of my favorite sites was ALBERT CREEK just outside of Watson Lake. The creek was 5- 8’ from my truck, a campfire going, rushing creek crystal clear beside me and the “Sounds of Silence”! In Whitehorse while waiting for Chuck, I got my fishing license, found a wonderful aquatic complex which I swam in each morning when they opened at 5AM, discovered a WalMart and familiarized myself with Whitehorse. What a very nice town it is of 25,000 +/- people. The people are so very helpful and friendly. Whitehorse is the biggest town in the Yukon. The second biggest is Dawson 1600 +/-. When Chuck came the first thing we did was view the town and ate. We went to see the “Kanoe People” canoe and recreation outlet owned by Scott McDougall and Joanne. Joanne is a member of the First Nation, which we in the U.S. call Indians. Canadians call them First Nation. Boy, were they helpful. After Chuck and I did some modification planning we discussed it with Scott. I have decided to leave my truck with Scott rather than drive to Anchorage and store it. It is also beneficial to Chuck because he had a rental car that he had to drop off in Skagway, AK and now I could follow him down and drive him back. During this time Chuck had said he wanted to hike the Chilkoot Trail to Bennett Lake. This trail starts just outside of Skagway and is the famous route the gold rush miners took to get to the Klondike and GOLD. I said I was game too, but when Chuck found out more about it – snow presently on the mountains and snowshoes necessary, we both agreed we weren’t prepared for it. It will be for another time. When we returned to Whitehorse we had discovered a favorite restaurant – Klondike BBQ and Ribs owned by Donna and Trevor. I ate Muskox and Buffalo! It was great.

The trip started with Chuck and I being dropped off at McClintock River, which empties, into Marsh Lake, which then discharges into the beginning of the Yukon River. We took my canoe because I thought we could sail down the river back to Kanoe People in Whitehorse and then load up both our canoes and take off the next day. The waters are much more static above the two dams than when we start on the real trip. Well, the wind was nice for about 2 miles of the 40 miles and the rest was paddling. The worst thing was I acquired a pinched nerve in my neck and I could barely move. I did paddle all the way but it killed me, and to portage the canoe, Chuck did most of the work, which just frustrated me to be so dependent. At last after 11 hours of paddling we made it to Kanoe People’s landing. Since my injury was so bad we decided to wait a day and see what would happen. The next day I was just fine. We still took the day to rest it. It also gave us the opportunity to fine tune what we wanted and send more information to others.

Sunday we started at noon, not more than a mile down river we both hit gravel bars. It was a warning that this river requires us to always be aware of where we are and what is below the surface. The Yukon is clear and rarely more than 100 yards wide at this point. Our first camp was Egg Island on the upriver end of Lake Laberge. Our first campsite – moose tracks, deer tracks and irritated sea gulls surrounded us. The next day we started to tackle Lake Laberge. Before we got to it though there were several sand bars crossing the river so shallow that we had to pull our canoes many 100’s of yards to pass over them. At last on Lake Laberge we started on the 35 mile long venture. I again, tried my sail but, of course, the wind was always in my face and tacking was not fast enough. Chuck would just paddle way ahead so I decided to paddle the thing too. We paddled all day. Soon there was no wind whatsoever and it was just beautiful. The two days we were on the lake we did not see one boat or canoe, and only saw one house. Chuck thinks it was First Nation who had a bunch of sled dogs howling. The lake is crystal clear and it is surrounded with mountains on both sides. Chuck found a beautiful campsite mid-way down the lake where we stayed. The mosquitoes and sandflies were tough there, but after I put on my Cutter repellent, it was great. Ducks and loons were all over. The next day we finished the lake paddle and got back on the Yukon River which was great due to it’s swift flow and constant changing scenery. Right after we re-entered the Yukon we saw and old Paddlewheeler wreck, which we discovered, was common on down the river. We, also, saw our first campers. We camped on another island in the rain and mosquitoes, but when set up it was just great. In the middle of the night, though, I quickly awoke because something was trying to enter my tent foyer. I soon discovered it was a mouse and it was constantly waking me up. The next morning during breakfast the mouse was running all over my tent entry and later was always around us. We called our campsite “Mouse Isle”. As the river proceeded, more rivers joined. The Teslin River was our first addition. A rustic campsite was there, but Chuck and I prefer our privacy and camped near a wreck called SS Klondike. All the islands are filled with moose signs. We are now seeing moose daily. The best campsite was Claire Creek. It was on a raised bank over the Yukon. Crystal clear creek and snow all around it with ice/snow bridges over it. It was absolutely beautiful. When we got to Dawson City, what a wonderful sight. It is absolutely breathtaking. The main access road is paved which is connected to Whitehorse and north, but all the other roads are gravel and wood boardwalks just like in the westerns of old, but it’s now and not for show. Skagway is old time and beautiful, but is almost 100% tourist attraction oriented. Not Dawson City. We photoed the place, of course, took a needed shower, washed our clothes, ate at a restaurant and enjoyed the environment totally. They were having a First Nation Celebration Day that we enjoyed as well. We met another group that had started at the Chilkoot Trail, paddled the lakes and sailed and were going to the Bering Sea. Mark, one of the group, was a logger taking the summer off. We spent the day in Dawson shopping for groceries and seeing the sights. At 1600 (4PM) we got underway and off on the real trip now and on to Eagle. About 11 miles down stream we camped. All through the night people were coming down the Yukon partying and were pulling out about a half mile farther down river from our campsite. It was a big celebration night for the Yukon people, June 21st, the longest day of the year is a big deal here. When I say all night by the way, it is light all 24 hours.

As an aside, I forgot to mention that we stopped at Salmon River Village (abandoned) with many log cabins deteriorating, prairie dogs on site, wild roses everywhere. I loved it and now wish I had camped there, but it was not even noon when we got there, so it wasn’t practical. We did camp at an abandoned crossing station with log buildings, roses and bluebell flowers, wild – everywhere! It was just beautiful.

When Chuck and I crossed the Canadian/USA border, we saw no monuments, but did see both flags on the left side of the river and Chuck saw where the forest was cut all along the line to show the border. Back in the USA and 10 miles to Eagle, AK. When we got to Eagle it was the most amazing place to me because after reading several Yukon River voyages and accounts, Eagle was described to me as a Grocery Store Customs office and upsetting people. It was completely the opposite to Chuck and me. It is a unique village with log cabins, old historic Fort Egbert facilities, museums and buildings. They even had a daily historic tour, which we took. I loved it there. We rented a motel room, washed up and took in the sights. That afternoon several people were taking pistol and rifle target practice across the river on the adjacent island – all this right in town – what a DEAL.

The river to this point is full of wild roses, bluebell wild flowers, eagles, ducks, bear (we’ve seen one), bear signs, moose, etc. Mountains with clouds crowning them were on both sides. The peace and the quiet are unbelievably breathtaking. This scenario goes all the way to Circle, AK. After Circle then 200 miles of “flats” which widens the river in some points 20 miles filled with islets. One wrong move and one can be in some backwater and get temporarily lost or have to portage and wade to get out of the place.

When we got to Circle, Alaska Chuck and I walked up the ramp and went to the grocery. Chuck John (First Nation) was at the register. They are open four hours a day. The restaurant is not open because potable water is not available there, or in town for that matter for almost one year. Chuck John is really a nice guy. It was a Saturday and Chuck Wilson wanted to see if the post office was open. Chuck John said no, but he tried to call Inga the postmaster. He called all around town until he found her and she said there were no packages there for Chuck Wilson. We asked if we could camp in town and Chuck John said we could camp anywhere we want. We camped on the bluff over our canoes, washed in a shower, which was 25 cents per “almost” squirt. It cost me $1.25 to wash up. We, also, washed our clothes. This was the only location in town that has potable water. We filled our jugs and got ready for bed. Chuck John came by and gave us a large chunk of Salmon (free) which we ate the next morning. He is really a very nice fellow and a carpenter too, which leads into the big problem in Circle. This town is very small, mostly Indians. They got a grant to build a 24 room hotel. The grant was one million dollars. The shell only was built, but most of the money was embezzled. The FBI, etc. are now investigating. All the while the town itself is without potable water. The town has no tourists so it was impossible for me to rationalize having a hotel in the first place! The next morning right before departure, Paul Nathaniel (the chief of the village) came up to me and introduced himself. We talked for a while and I asked him about the hotel. He was the foreman and was an instrumental part of the planning. The purpose of the hotel was/is because he has made several tour arrangements with Eagle, Alaska and Fairbanks. Eagle is constructing a paddlewheeler to go to Circle to be completed next year. Hence the reasoning for this hotel. The people, Chuck, Paul and Mr. Hendrickson went out of their way to make life nice while we were there. Mr. Hendrickson had the other grocery store and brought us a free $1.00 Anchorage newspaper!

The next morning, I cooked up the Salmon (oh, how good) and Chuck and I ate and departed. This is the beginning of the flats! We were concerned that we would miss the current and get caught in some backwater area. The area has no mountains, just islands, flat, full of spruce, poplar and willow. It has its own beauty. We both enjoy this new scenery. In two days we were at Ft. Yukon.

Ft. Yukon projects the opposite sense of all the previous villages. It is one mile north of the Arctic Circle on a hill. When we got to the “town” it was ramshackled, log, plywood, etc. built dwellings with trash in and around their yards, and evil smelling garbage in cans near their homes. A woman came out of her house inviting us in but causing negative vibrations to us both. Ft. Yukon is much larger than Circle and Eagle, but it was like a garbage dump. There is no central town, by the way, it is just spread all over and haphazardly constructed. After four hours we were out of the place and a few miles later on to another nice quiet river isle.

We had agreed that if we were separated in this maze of isles that we would meet at a forward destination. We, also, agreed that we would do our best to stick to one another closely in the flats, so the possibility of separation would not occur. It Did! On July 1st right after Ft. Yukon we camped in a nice couple of isles. At the last isle I had mentioned to Chuck that I wanted to stop early on July 1st to write up this paper and forward it to Betty “snail mail” so different perspectives would be presented. At 1400 (2PM) we had traveled about 30+ miles and I saw an island that “may” be ideal to camp on and following the current as we always have. I looked around, but didn’t see Chuck! As we always do, I quickly got on the radio because I, at first, assumed he was farther behind because he works on his pocketmail and sometimes drifts behind. My canoe is much slower and heavier so I must paddle all the time. By the way, after I stopped using the double paddle and began using the single paddle, no more pinched nerve. It had happened a second time and was so bad that Chuck had to set up my tent (Thanks Chuck)! Anyway, when I got on the radio, Chuck said he had caught the other drift before he knew it and was now on the other side of the isle. I had pulled over into an eddy by the isle and thought maybe I could paddle around and join him. I paddled up the eddy until I hit unpaddleable currents and told him, so he said, he thought that he was farther ahead and that if I drift down a ways we would rejoin. I looked at the map and I suggested meeting him at Steven’s Village and started drifting down the river course hoping Chuck was right and the map and the opening over the isle were wrong. I soon realized that this was no short isle like we had many other times resolved the problem and rejoined. This isle was very large and the currents were in different directions. I told Chuck this isle was very long and that when I came clear I would let him know. As I came around the bend I called in and said I saw a white building. He said he didn’t. Shortly thereafter I called in after I used my GPS system and said, “I think I am in Beaver, AK.” No answer. I did radio checks for several half-hour times, but no answer, so – Steven’s Village here I went. There was another town between here and Steven’s Village named Purgatory, AK, but like Beaver it is in the maze of Isles and can be easily missed. Steven’s seemed like it was a village that one would pass because it wasn’t confused with all kinds of islands. I drifted by Beaver, photoed it and was now concerned about getting to Steven’s Village so Chuck wouldn’t have to wait around for me or worry about what is going on.

The day, from the start of the paddle to 1400 (2PM), was still and downright hot. Don’t think that the sun can’t wear you out here. It does. But soon after losing contact it started to rain and the wind went up to 30 – 40 mph and as I said it is NEVER behind you. Following my map, my route was relatively straight to Steven’s Village so I started to paddle solidly. The wind, waves, and rain increased to such a level that I saw a route that looked a little calmer, though only slightly calmer. When the wind picks up as it often does in the flats, one can no longer see which way the best current is going. One cannot see which way the current is going at all as a matter of fact. I got to the calmer route and did see some current so I took it. It was slower, but much more calm. I figured 2 – 3 days would get me to Steven’s Village. I paddled late into the night, which as I said is virtually light all the time, until I passed Purgatory, which must have been behind some group of isles because I didn’t see it. I did know the longitude so I knew I was below it somewhere. On this route I was on, it was like I was on a large river. Since before Beaver the islets disappeared and are replaced by long wide isles like the one where Chuck and I got separated. At last I saw a gravel bar. The rain had stopped for a few hours so I could immediately set up camp. I fell into bed. I needed the sleep.

The next morning, July 2nd, I swore I would make Steven’s Village that day and rejoin Chuck. It started raining at 7AM and increased in wind and rain all day long. I saw a turn off and also a single family fish camp about 11-12 AM, and an Indian called me over for coffee. I thanked him, but I said I had to make Steven’s Village. He said it was 35 miles and that I’m right on track. He was cleaning several large salmon and smoking them. I said I wanted to see how it was done (how he does it, because I know how to smoke – my way), but I would have to find someone else down river due to this rejoining problem. He said he wasn’t selling his catch, but storing it for his family for the winter – WOW. Oh, I saw several salmon jump.

This part of the Yukon river starting at Pelly river is silty. One cannot see 3-4 inches under the water. That really makes it tough when one assumes there is a gravel bar under water and wonders how deep it is. The wind and the rain hit again and the waves in the river were beyond belief. At last, at 1700 (5PM) I took a GPS fix and saw where the map said, on a peninsula, Steven’s Village is located. I paddled and fought the wind, rain and waves all down the eastern side of the peninsula and NO Steven’s Village. I panicked. If I can’t find it then we were in real trouble. I paddled around the north/south direction of the thick peninsula and started paddling north up the west side. I saw a fish camp, called to it, but it was not inhabited. All of a sudden I saw a house, only one, and it had a motor boat by it on a high 40’ cliff. I pulled my canoe up and walked to the house. It was flooded with sled dogs raising alarm with me. A little Indian boy opened the beautiful rustic log cabin two story home door and an older Indian, Joe, said take the first small right stream one mile and I’d be there. I was relieved to say the least. My GPS was right; the town wasn’t as obvious as shown on my map.

Beside the river and the little cut off though I solved the problem by setting up my tent right in an obvious place so that Chuck would see it. Joe had told me Chuck had not come to town yet and he went to town to put them on notice. About 1700 the wind and rain had eased up and at 1800 it had stopped. By 1900 (7PM) my camp was set up right on the point. Since 1700 I had been doing radio checks every half hour without result. At 2000 I was asleep. On July the third, my Dad’s birthday, if he were alive, God rest his beautiful soul, I was up and wrote this. I ate my first hot meal in two days due to the heavy travel and rain and waited for Chuck. He made it at 1600! Boy did we have a lot to catch up on. The heavy weather with both of us, the different routes we selected and so, it was great to rejoin. We shall depart late July 4th after we stop in Steven’s Village, send mail, pick up food, wash ourselves and the clothes, if possible, then off to the Dalton Highway about 60 miles to go where we will be the day after tomorrow. Then the big town of Tanana accessed only by river.

One last thing on my update. You all ought to see the Salmon fish traps that these people construct. They are very large self-made, by logs with two opposing scoops which dump the catch into a side box. The scoops are opposing each about 8’ long and about 8’ wide as well and are driven by the current. When we get back we will have photos of them. But I will know how to build them too.

Another process I want to learn is how they drip and smoke their salmon for the winter – what wood they use – one uses Alder and how long to do it, what type of structure they use etc. etc.

For the builders, the log cabin construction is very interesting. Most of the Spruce here is straight and lightly branched with a pretty consistent width. They knock only one side as they construct it unless they add a partition within and then they usually double knock the intermediate logs. They then fill the log spaces with the forest moss and use clay like mixture over that on the outside. If an interior partition log is thick on one end and slimmer on the other end, they put in a wood wedge to insure the logs are level as they construct the wall. Moss is used as well on the interior and then an oil cloth would be placed over the interior to act as wall paper in the better built cabins. Some of the best cabins used small logs placed against the exterior spacing of the log wall covering the moss insuring that the moss won’t wash out. The roofs are amazing but I know they leak some. They use one large log as the ridge rafter then they put consistently small logs for both rafters and sheathing. Then they put dirt and grass on top. It’s great during the winter, which is most of the time. The summer rains are surely another story. The pitches are never greater than 4 and 12, by the way. In the deteriorating cabins what’s the first thing that goes? – the roof falls in! The foundation you ask? Well, they bury a large log in the perimeter, if they feel industrious, if not, they just level the ground and start construction. I have photos of them, so when I get back Chuck and I shall make some presentations. I wish all readers well and I shall update snail mail later.