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7 July: Days-30, Total-31, Miles-38, Total-1125 – Chuck

The wind blew hard until 2:30am. When I awoke at 5:30 all was still and the water smooth. We quickly packed to take advantage of the favorable conditions. Hot oatmeal, a thermos of coffee to go and we were on the water before 7am. What a difference, it was really pleasant. However, within an hour the wind and waves were building again. The sky was completely covered with clouds and it drizzled rain off and on for hours. The wind maxed at about 15 knots, always in our face. The waves were only about a foot, half of yesterday's performance. On the left bank I saw a black bear walking down the shoreline in my direction. I got one photo at a distance and the camera started its auto-rewind. After I reloaded, it was a distance shot in the other direction. I signaled Bill in the middle of the river and, on the radio, gave him the bear's location. It was the first black bear we have seen since we started the trip. At one point it was about 50 yards from me.

As we entered a series of three canyons, the wind died, the seas calmed and we were allowed to pass uninhibited. The canyons are captivating. Surrounded by huge rocky cliffs on both sides, riding on an even swifter than normal current, the echoed sound of water cascading over and around rock, the cool feel of evaporated water and spray in the air; all these concentrated together and focused on us as we pass through these wonderful walls. I love it!

At one point the map shows rapids. Well in advance, we saw the enormous boulders that extend from the right bank to the middle of the river. If the water level had been higher, the safe route might not have been so obvious.

Once out of the canyons we were back in the wind. We found a couple of narrow flat spots near a clear, icy cold creek and called it home for the night. I used my long kayak paddle to cantilever a support to suspend the water bag of my solar shower. There was no sunshine today to warm the water but it still felt great.

Q: A couple of folks have asked how our equipment is holding up.
A: Very well, much better than we expected. Most of it needs a good cleaning but is functional. My 20 year old Therm-A-Rest mattress has been leaking for a week. I'm now using my spare Z-Rest on top of the semi-flat Therm-A-Rest and it is quite comfortable. Of course, Bill's PocketMail refused to work after he gave it a bath.
Q: From Terry Miller in Lime Springs, IA. "When you're stuck in the canoe all day long, how do you go to the bathroom?"
A: Everyone works out their own arrangement. I carry a 'pee bottle', after each filling it is emptied over the side and rinsed. The same bottle is useful at night in the tent when cold, wind or bugs would make a trip outside uncomfortable. When the bowels are signaling a movement, we head for the shore and catch up with the other canoe after taking care of business. (Terry, if you don't have beer along it greatly reduces the number of times you need be troubled with this problem).