28 July: Day-48, Total-52; Miles-60, Total-1742
– Chuck
Wind and waves increased during the early morning, now
the wind is about 20 kts, gusting to 30 kts and waves are about two
feet. This is the upper margin of our comfort level. Because it is a
quartering tail wind it is probably doable. But, if we round a bend
or the wind shifts a few degrees and it becomes a headwind we would
be in trouble. We decide to wait.
The wind shift has pushed water higher on our shore and turned our canoes.
We moved our tiedowns farther inland and resecured them.
Bill loaned me his "The Great Alaska Nature Fact Book" and
borrowed my book of Jack London stories. Guess Contract Law will have
to wait.
Noon: The waves have smoothed considerably, we decide to watch it for
an hour and go if the improvement continues.
2pm: We are back on the water. It feels good to be underway again. Bill
had rigged his sail and the wind is ideal. Soon we have the towline
in place and are cruising. I have found that paddling enough to keep
slack in the tow line is about as easy as just keeping my canoe in a
straight line trailing behind Bill's. This also allows Bill's canoe
to move a little faster. Then, when I need to refer to the map or GPS,
get food, water, etc, my boat just settles into the tow mode. And, after
my diversion, I can resume paddling.
We continued sailing for several hours averaging about 5 mph. Then in
the early evening the wind eased and we turned more northerly. At this
point Bill sometimes could tack and other times he would paddle to assist
the light wind. During these times it is best if I cut loose.
As we passed Ohog, a boat with an Eskimo family motored alongside us
and we talked for several minutes. They were very pleasant and gave
us some helpful information.
About 11:30pm, as the village of Marshall was just coming into view,
a boat with two men and a woman powered up to us. They were all Eskimo
and were very friendly.
We paddled past Marshall about midnight, the village looked very inviting.
It is situated on a smooth sloping tundra hillside with barren, green
tundra all around it. The town was alive with activity; kids shouted
"Hello, out there" repeatedly and we could hear vehicles and
someone hammering. Soon a boat came alongside, a young guy and two girls,
all young Eskimos talked and drifted with us for a mile or two.
It was 1:30am and nearly dark. We could see the village lights of Marshall
reflecting on the straight wide channel behind us. We paddled just off
the right bank, half looking for a potential campsite and just happy
to be putting in some miles.
The light level was now increasing and Bill checked out a possible site
in a slough off to the right. We pitched high on the bank in the grass,
it was 4am.